Put-In-Bay, South Bass Island OH

This picture of Put-In-Bay was taken from the top of the very tall tower commemorating Admiral Perry's victory over the British in the Battle of Lake Erie (also called the Battle of Put-In-Bay). For $3 each, we took the elevator to the top and as promised, we could see "clear to Canada".

After a two hour cruise from Sandusky, we arrived here before noon and chose a mooring ball close to and protected by Gibraltar Island (the cluster of trees, upper right). This location is protected from winds in any direction, including NE winds that can create a surge in other parts of the Bay. Today rain and possible thunder storms are predicted through the day and evening so we are glad to be tucked in here.

Perry's Victory and International Peace Memorial

Here in Put-In-Bay, Admiral Perry is given a lot of credit for his role in bringing the War of 1812 to a successful conclusion after which "international peace was established along the world's longest undefended border".  At least that is what is implied in the film we viewed at the town visitors' center. There is a rather quick segue from the American victory in the Lake Erie naval battle to the end of the war and the settling of differences. The battle was, indeed, a turning point for the Americans and gave them back control of Lake Erie; however, the complexities of the war and the inconclusive victory of one side or the other are not part of the narrative at the visitors' center.

Put-In-Bay is a party town full of bars, restaurants and tourist attractions "for the whole family": The War of 18 Holes miniature golf course, the Butterfly House, the Antique Cars Barn and so on. Beyond the hoaky facades of the many town bars and restaurants and the innumerable shops selling Put-In-Bay T-shirts and souvenirs is a pretty little island with a National Park and a small community of families - most of them owners of businesses here.

Apparently we have managed to be here during the very busiest weekend of the summer. Why this weekend? - well because it's the end of the two week Christmas in July celebration. From the sounds of music, singing and yelling that were drifting across the bay to our more remote location night, I can attest to the hilarity and general exuberance of this end of season celebration.

The Boardwalk Taxi approaching Sand Castle 

On our first afternoon in town, we happened upon a very good band playing at the Roundhouse, decided to join the fun and managed to find an empty table and four stools. For the better part of 2 hours we whooped it up with all the other somewhat long in the tooth couples and unattached women who were dancing in front of the stage. The demographic of the audience probably had a lot to do with the type of music being played. There are crowds of younger people on the streets today - some in Santa hats; others, driving around in decorated golf carts.

The Roundhouse Bar

Thursday evening we met a couple on the Boardwalk Water Taxi and decided to join them in attending two lectures on Gibraltar Island (just behind where our boat is moored). The Stone Laboratories on Gibraltar and Put-In-Bay Islands are the center of Ohio State University’s teaching and research on Lake Erie. The center offers courses for students of ecology and the aquatic sciences (not sure if "aquatic sciences" is a term but it's the best I can come up with) and the students studying there were also attending the evening lectures. We learned a little about the center and found the lectures interesting. Just ask us now about how the personalities of native predators might affect their interaction with invasive species (i.e. - to eat or not to eat) or about the problem of Algal Bloom in not only Lake Erie but other lakes worldwide. We now know all about the effects of phosphorus run off from fertilizers and from "combined sewer overflow" both of which have been acerbated in recent years by increased severe weather incidents (think Toronto's over flowing sewers during the recent  rainstorm). It was an unexpected pleasure to get the brain cells working and to meet so many pleasant and interesting people.

The question now is - do we leave tomorrow as planned, cross over to the north side of the lake and start up the Detroit river? The winds will be pushing us in the right direction but presently the prediction is for gusts up to 25 knots. How much will these winds stir up the shallow Lake Erie waters?

The Best Part of Erie (So Far)

We had a short rolling ride from Cleveland to Vermilion - another day of motor sailing with more motor than sail happening. Swells on our beam made us inordinately glad that it was all over when we arrived at noon.

The part of Vermilion where the yacht club resides is a picture perfect community built around a lagoon. On each side of the channel there are white homes of various designs - all quite lovely and all with black roofs and trim - black and white only is the rule if you live in the "Vermilion Lagoons". As a member of the community, you have access to a private beach and also, I suspect, must submit to an unwritten directive to maintain perfectly beautiful and creatively designed gardens complete with expensive and novel lawn accessories - like distinctive post boxes, discreet lawn ornaments and very upscale cars. Which is to say that the community is a pleasure to behold and very pleasing to see as one dinghies around or goes for an evening walk.

We quite enjoyed the small but very comfortable and well kept yacht club and took our turn sitting in the rocking deck chairs assembled on the front porch. A very friendly fellow from a boat near by took Warren and Bob to West Marine in one of the golf carts rented in town for visitors to get around.  Later in the day, we took our dinghies into town to grocery shop and then, in spite of a torrential downpour that held little promise of letting up, we loaded our bags back into our dinghies and sloshed back through the rain.

From Vermilion we sailed (yes sailed) to Sandusky where we anchored for a night in the only anchorage anywhere near the town. It was marked on the chart as a "special anchorage area " and sits next to the parking lots for the huge Sandusky Amusement Park on Cedar Point.  We'd never seen so many varieties of truly scary looking roller coasters and torturous versions thereof. We didn't hear any screams from where we sat, but the sound of the rides traveling over the metal tracks was exactly like wind howling in rigging. Is there any wonder that there were no other boats anchored there? In point of fact, there was a lot of actual wind bouncing us about through the night and testing our mud encased anchors - so much so that we escaped yesterday to the Sandusky Yacht Club where we've been been able to walk through the town, grocery shop and do laundry.  Tomorrow we leave for the Bass Islands for some anchoring or perhaps to sit on a mooring ball in the much talked about Put-In Bay.

Touring the U.S.S. Cod

A big storm with lots of thunder and lightning raged through the night or so they tell me. I slept through it all. Bob was up a couple of times checking things and putting up the sides of the cockpit enclosure to keep the driving rain from coming into the cabin. Putting in the boards to close everything up would have kept out the rain - but also the much needed cooler air as well - so that wasn't an option. Somehow I managed to not hear a thing.



We so appreciated the cooler air today. This afternoon we walked a fair distance up the road to tour a submarine from the Second World War. The guys were generally interested in all the dials and levers and what might be required to operate a vessel like this but Karen and I were more focused on the narrow spaces to sleep, the size of the galley and the huge cans of vegetables, fruit and stew tucked in every available space (actually dummy cans - empty now).

 The water in the lake is still churned up from the winds last night and waves are supposed to be 5 ft. plus. We hope to find calmer waters tomorrow on our way to our next stop - Vermillion, Ohio.