Port of Quebec Marina - the old city beyond.
When I've had access to the Web, there's been no time to write. When I've had time to write, I've had no access. It's not so much fun blogging when you get so far behind.
So - a week ago Thursday - we cruised into Quebec City - right to the marina that sits near the old city and where the tidal difference is more than we've yet encountered. To illustrate how the rise and fall of tides increases as you move down the river to the Atlantic: at Trois Rivieres the difference was one foot, here at Portneuf the difference was 9 feet, and at Quebec City it was 15 feet and can be as much as 19. The solution for the Port of Quebec marina is to have boats enter through a lock so as be able to control the flow of water in and out of the harbour and maintain an acceptable depth. To get into the harbour you go into an entrance basin where you wait for the green light signalling that you can enter the lock, Once into the lock, you tie up to a floating dock. Water is added or taken out of the lock to match the water level in the inner harbour - and the dock that you are tied to floats up or down accordingly. When we locked through, there were 6 boats in our lock - almost a full load. We were told to call the marina for our dock assignment after we left the lock. As I saw later - they have a number of staff waiting in the office until the lock opens and docks are assigned - who then go running to meet and assist in-coming boats as they dock (all 6 of us) - very nice!
The facilities at the marina are excellent - Internet access, clean showers, very good security, helpful staff and a great location! When I heard about the lock it sounded like a very big deal - and I thought that the whole Quebec water experience would be somewhat challenging but once again - it was one step at a time with no one part being very difficult. One problem we encountered though, was getting from the dock onto the boat at low tide. Even though the water level in the harbour is controlled, it still goes down with low tide - just not as much - so at times the distance between the dock and the deck of our boat was considerable and very hard to "scale". To solve the problem Bob went to nearby marine shop, and bought a "fender step" - you tie it to the toe rail and it acts as a step sitting on the side of the boat. It made getting on and off the boat a breeze for us - and for our guests.

Our visit to Quebec City was planned as an ICW/Bahamas Bunch reunion - a get together of friends we made and traveled with on parts of our trip south and back. Barb and Ken (Plumpuppet) drove up from Montgomery Vermont; Karen and Graeme (Sweet Chariot) drove in from Ottawa; France and Donald (Alto), who live in Quebec City invited us all for dinner at their home and joined us on Sunday afternoon for a walk and lunch. Barb and Ken stayed with us; Karen and Graeme stayed on Sandcastle.
We had pot luck lunches on both boats, explored the city together, ate at a good French restaurant on Friday night and then had another great meal at France and Donald's Saturday night. While the women caught up with each others' lives, the men talked boats, boats, boats and we all talked about the winter of 08/09 when we went south.
The wall mural at Place Royale, Quebec City - can you find Warren, Bob and Ken?
Karen, France, Warren, Laura, Barb, Donald, Ken; sitting: Graeme and Bob
Our stay coincided with a summer festival in Quebec City. There seemed to be entertainment everywhere. Most notably - right at the harbour where we were staying there was an hour long video presentation (with music) shown from 10 to 11 in the evening and projected across a long row of silos as well the face of a large building standing near them. We had a side view of the show from our boats but not the complete panorama so after dinner on Friday night, we all walked back to the area directly in front of the silos and sat to watch the show. It was an amazing concept - very impressive.

Throughout the 3 days we spent together, there was a fair bit of laughter over name confusion. (Karen said I must put this in the blog.) For some reason I kept calling Karen, Laura and couldn't seem to stop. Bob teased me about it - Karen said she would answer to either name. Then Barb started calling Karen and Laura, Carole. Embarrassment gave way to laughter. Finally, Bob privately kept referring to Graeme as Blair and the biggest laugh came Saturday night at Donald and Frances' home where - in front of all who sat around the table - Bob started ribbing "Blair". When I said "Bob - his name is Graeme" the whole table broke up - except for Donald and France who hadn't been in on all the name mix-ups for the last 2 days. When we tried to explain to them, Donald very seriously asked - "but why 'Blair'?" - why indeed - where that came from not even Bob knows.
France leads us on a walk through the old city.
Our time in Quebec City was full of laughter and fun. We had a wonderful time reuniting with our sailing friends and we were sorry to have to say good-bye.
Monday morning we left for Portneuf - our cruising speed would be slower than before since now we were traveling upriver; however, we did as much as 6.5 knots in some places and never went below 5 - much faster than expected. The following day we didn't leave Portneuf until 2:30 in the afternoon. We were waiting for the rising tide to offset the strong river current in the Richelieu Rapids. All went well - we were slower than the day before - and would move slower yet in the days to come. As the tidal effect decreases upriver, we'll get little help fighting the prevailing current. That night we anchored in the mouth of the Bastican River - a little shallow - just one foot plus below our keel - but a good spot none the less.
On Wednesday we up anchored at 6:30 to head for Trois Rivieres. Now we were truly bucking current. It felt as though we were churning through molasses. We covered the 20 miles from the Bastican River to Trois Rivieres in about 5 hours - an average of 4 knots per hour. This time, rather than go into the marina, we anchored in the west arm of the St. Maurice River. We had arrived by noon so were able to sit and watch the goings on around us: the people on the sandy beach nearby, groups of sea cadets rowing around in whalers, small and bigger boats passing by. Bob and I lowered the swim platform and went for a dip in the water. In the late afternoon a storm blew through and after that all was quiet.
We had taken two days to travel from Portneuf to Trois Rivieres - a distance we covered in one day going the other way. At this slower speed, we preferred to travel these 2 shorter days rather than grind it out from dawn til dusk.
Anchorage in the St. Maurice River, Trois Rivieres
Thursday turned into a big travel day: we left at 6:00 a.m. and didn't drop anchor until 6 that evening. It was a perfect sailing day: clear skies and enough wind so that we could put out a sail to help us along. (Throughout this trip, we have been motoring or motor sailing as turning off the engine is not an option when you are following marked channels along a river.) With the favourable wind pushing our speed to as high as 5 knots (sounds funny doesn't it?), we were able to go farther than planned, bypassing the lovely anchorage in the Sorel Islands and anchoring instead in a pretty channel across from the village of Contrecoeur
From Contrecoeur we had only 24 miles to Montreal. We left at 6:30 expecting to arrive by noon. How naive we were! There was very little wind and generally the first part of the day was slow - our speed didn't go above 4 knots - but the big slowdown came when we as we were nearing Montreal and passing the docks and commercial shipping area on the outskirts of the city - for 6 nautical miles the current was 3 knots against us with a sometimes hearty wind on our nose. Our speed fell below 3 knots.
Close to our destination marina in Old Montreal, we ducked into the marina at Longueil to get diesel and a pump out and to wait for Karen and Warren. They are on a smaller boat and were slowed even more by the current than we were. In order to get to the marina in Old Montreal, we would have to buck a current that can go to 6 knots. That's a major problem for slow boats like ours - so we wanted to set out together so as to confer as we ground our way along.
It was quite the experience. At times we were traveling at just over one knot. Now that's slow! All our reference sources had advised to keep close to the docks on the one side so as to avoid the worst of the current. That wasn't working for us. Bob noticed that the commercial boats who travel back and forth everyday hugged the other side of the river - so we commenced to move across. In spots the progress was only marginally better - in others our speed climbed to 2 and 3 knots. That speed was looking very good to us now. We churned our way along and then at the second green marker upriver, we turned toward the docks on the starboard side (Karen says to put the marker numbers in so I'll look them up and add them to the blog later). Bob was using his usual intuitive and creative problem solving approach - going against all advice and figuring out a better way.
We were just ahead of the big clock tower on the point; here we hugged the dock wall and then the breakwater in front of the Port of Quebec Marina (not our destination) and finally we followed the wall around the corner of the clock tower. Now our speed climbed to a consistent 2.5 and 3 knots. Finally we rounded the corner where we picked up a favourable 2 knot current and then "sped" downriver toward the Port d'Escale marina where we would be staying.
The clock tower - as we came upriver, we passed under the bridge.
When we reached the wall shown in the picture we had rounded the corner - out of the downriver current and we were "home free".
We looked back - Sandcastle was far behind. We called and Warren told us that his knot metre was showing 00: they had effectively ground to a halt. Bob advised turning and going across the current as we had done and then pointing the boat toward the first green marker. Warren said that as he turned the boat had begun to move again. We told them we would dock, grab our handheld VHF, walk back to the clock tower wall, and then call them.
From the wall we could see Sandcastle struggling down the river but making progress. Since we could see where the worst of the current was - and also since we had just found a way through, Bob was able to advise on turning and target points. Finally Sandcastle rounded the corner and headed towards our marina. I'd lost track of time but when we greeted Sandcastle at the dock, Karen said that we had left the gas dock at Longueuil about 3 and since now it was 5 - it has taken us about an hour and Sandcastle, 2 hours to get down river to the marina. I don't know the distance but it couldn't be more than 2 nautical miles. This is a wonderful spot - a great location but it's unlikely that either boat will attempt to run this gauntlet again!
Sandcastle as seen from the Clock Tower wall - almost there!
Port D'Escale Marina in Old Montreal