Today is the Day

We joined the crowd yesterday waiting outside Isles grocery store in Staniel Cay. The freight boat had come in and customers waiting outside were helping to unload boxes of produce so as to expedite the process. No one would be allowed to enter the store until boxes were emptied and everything was in place. We found Carolyn and Keith from Whim waiting with the rest. Whim had seemed to follow us for days down the ICW - or were we following them? We would anchor somewhere and turn to see Whim anchored as well. When we last met Carolyn and Keith, we agreed that we would get together next time so they're coming by later for drinks. Once in the store, we were part of the general free for all - everyone quickly picking up food treasures (spinach! avocado! cucumber!) - and then we joined the long line to the counter where 3 women worked quickly enough considering they had no fancy cash register to call up prices.

That morning we had moved from Big Majors (home of "pig beach") to anchor closer to Staniel Cay - all the better to nip in for shopping and guest pick up. In more challenging weather, not many anchor here so we were wary but we did find a spot with apparent good holding. For added excitement, at low tide our depth sounder reads 00! - but Bob was generous when he entered the keel offset so we are not really grounded - it just looks that way.

We've ditched plans to stay at the yacht club for the early part of the week while the kids are here. A predicted Sunday night blow from the west changed our minds. On the banks side west of the Exuma islands (where we are) protection from most wind directions can be found except from the west and then it gets more difficult. All morning, we listened to boats booking Sunday night stays at marinas - but at Staniel Cay, we've been told, "You don't want to be on our docks in a west wind" - so we'll stay anchored here tonight awaiting the kids' arrival this aft. and then tomorrow morning, along with Gemini and Chanceux, we'll go back to the protected anchorage at Pipe Cay. By then we'll have the "fast boat" we've rented from Raymond "Breadboy" Andrews and we hope to have the kids follow us in the fast boat - with Sean at the helm. Once there, we can use our boat as a jumping off place for a day of sight seeing adventures. (We haven't yet asked where Raymond got his Breadboy name.)

So - Krista, Sean and Michelle arrive this afternoon - and we've decided that rather than rent a golf cart, we'll dinghy up the little inlet to the airstrip to greet them and then put their bags in the dinghy for Bob to bring back while I walk the travelers to their "Nautica" cottage overlooking the bay (while almost - overlooking the road next to the beach overlooking the bay). This morning we are going to the All-Age School fund raiser which just happens to be on the beach in front of the kids' cottage. We'll take some breakfast food to leave in the cottage and then we'll join Joe and his fiancee Jodie for the fund raiser lunch.

Today is the day. It's warm, clear and beautiful and couldn't be a better day to greet the visiting three.

Hanging Around the Exumas

Saturday, February 21st: Little Farmer's Cay

We were anchored for 5 nights in Pipe Creek. That's a fair bit of time for us to stay in one place but it's protected from the big waves and there's lots to do. We explored in the dinghy, hiked and visited with back and forth with Carole and Joe (Just Ducky).

On Tuesday afternoon, we went in to check out a nearby island: Sampson Cay and the yacht club there - an upscale club on a pretty piece of land. The club has lovely cottages that look more like homes: each is surrounded by greenery and is very private. There is also a beach and nature trails for the use of guests; however, like other places we've visited, there were few people on the grounds or in the bar and restaurant although there were a number of large cruising boats on the docks as well as 7 or 8 sailboats anchored in the bay. You don't have to pay to anchor but sailors would likely spend money at the club for Web access (which I did), for the odd meal at their restaurant and for groceries at the club store. The weekly freight boat was due the next day, so we returned on Wednesday and bought fresh items that I hadn't found elsewhere: cheddar cheese, cream cheese and yogurt. Carole and Joe turned up- they were also on the hunt for items they needed so we stayed to have lunch with them.

Shopping here is a little like going on a treasure hunt. After looking in tiny stores where there are may be almost no fresh food available, you feel as though you've hit the jackpot when you see fresh vegetables or dairy foods. Everyone knows when the freight boat from Nassau is scheduled or about changes in arrival times -  it can be due one day but come the next - and as soon as the boat has deposited supplies, people rush to stores to buy whatever fresh items they can find. A few days later - even the day after - there will be precious little left other than the usual canned and boxed non-perishables and perhaps a few sweet potatoes, onions, or green tomatoes.

Back at Pipe Creek, we spent a morning hiking one of the trails on Thomas Cay. Richard had showed us the trail - so we knew to look for the pile of conch shells on the beach and then plastic crates at each side of the entrance. Someone has cut a trail through the bush to the other side of the cay and this winter Joe has been keeping it clear of overgrowth. When we got to the ocean side we found Carole shelling on the beach - Joe had gone hiking but when he returned, he told us how to get beyond the big rock we had climbed with Richard so that we could walk along another beach, use the rope left hanging down the side of the next rocky hill to climb it and climb down the other side to walk a third beach. Following all instructions we were able to walk and climb our way to the end of the cay where water moves in and out of a small cut from the bay to the ocean waters of Exuma Sound. There were several beautiful views and I was busy all the way taking pictures.

By Friday morning, we were ready to explore someplace new. I wanted to check out a few of the anchorages and sites further south that are described in the Madcap blog (I have the blog printed out and keep it on the boat) - so we pulled anchor, said our goodbyes and thank yous to Joe and Carole for their good company and all of their help, and headed south to Little Farmer's Cay.

It's been interesting here at Little Farmer's Cay. We're anchored smack in the middle of the bay. Much of the bay has a scoured and rock strewn bottom so is not good for anchoring We tried one of the moorings but with the wind pushing one way and the current pushing harder the other, the mooring ball immediately began bumping against the hull. Then we tried anchoring in the area just behind the mooring ball but when I reversed the engine, Bob reported that the anchor was just dragging along the bottom. Finally, we anchored at the edge of a sandbar where the chart showed good holding. The anchor dug in and we have remained firmly in place since yesterday - in spite of 20 knot winds this afternoon.

This is a very small community (or "settlement"). There is a tiny, tiny bar, a little store with sparse stock, and if you want to buy fish you ask at the green house near the dock. A little ways up the hill you find the Ocean Club restaurant and at the other tip of the bay, there's the Little Farmer's Cay Yacht Club. When we walked over, there were no boats at the one dock nor was there anyone inside except the owner who was eating his "late supper" (lunch to us).

Well - we really lived it up at Little Farmer's Cay - We bought a can of evaporated milk and 2 cans of New Zealand butter in the store, we had a drink in the teeny bar and sat and talked to locals. We took our dinghy into the yacht club to eat dinner (we had ordered our dinner ahead - as most places in the Exumas ask you to do). Today, we took our garbage in (leaving money in the garbage disposal fee box), brought in four jerry cans to fill with town water (and tipped the fellow who filled our cans and helped carry them back to the dock), had lunch at the Ocean Club (we were the only patrons and the centre of attention from town people who popped in and out), and then bought lobster from the fishermen who had just brought their small boat into the dock - they knew we might be interested as we had already asked at the green house the day before. We bought 3 medium sized lobsters ( a fourth lobster they had was absolutely huge) and as soon as we got back to the boat, Bob snapped off the tails so that I could steam all 3 in my largest pot. Guess what we're having for dinner?

We were the only "out of towners" we saw during our visit to the Cay other than a Swedish couple and their little boy eating dinner at the yacht club the night we were there. Their boat ( a new 40 ft. Jeanneau they bought in Nassau) is anchored near us in the channel. There are 2 other boats anchored way on the other side, but we didn't see the occupants in town.

At both Little Farmer's Cay Yacht Club and the Ocean Club the owners pulled up a chair to sit and talk. Just as in the bar, the state of the economy, here and elsewhere, was the main topic of conversation. Ernestine, at Ocean Club, said that everything is so much slower this year that if things don't pick up by June, she "will really begin to worry" . We found everyone surprisingly well informed about Canada, its resources and health care system. As the fellow in the bar said, Canada is a British colony just like the Bahamas (well maybe not anymore - but we didn't quibble). Everyone that we passed said hello, many said welcome and how are you enjoying your time here? Everything fine? The Bahamians are eager to please. We have found them to be helpful and honest. They know how much their economy depends on people like us and how important it is that we say good things to our friends and that we want to return ourselves. Little Farmer's Cay succeeded in being the friendliest of the friendly Bahamian places we've visited.

These last couple of weeks we've been on a reconnaissance mission preparing for the coming of the kids. As part of that, this morning we dinghied and hiked to Oven Rock Cave to check it out. Would it be worth bringing the "kids"? - It's a fairly large cave - with water dripping from stalactites and a pool at the bottom - yes - probably a good destination. In the next couple of days, we hope to anchor near a beach where there is supposed to be a colony of iguanas. This iguanas location is less well known than Allens Cay further north in the Exumas where there are a large number. If we find the iguanas , we'll take the kids for a viewing. It's a good thing that we arrived well in advance of our guests. It's taken us most of the month to figure our how we are going to provision so as to feed everyone, and to scout out places to take them. Are we not the perfect hosts?

Sunday, February 22nd: Jack's Bay

As a postscript to the blog I wrote yesterday - after sitting at the Nav table for a considerable length of time writing the blog, I got up to discover that I wasn't feeling so well. Nevertheless, I started pulling out ingredients to make English Muffins - a kind of cruisers' recipe which involves "baking" them on a skillet. After searching in lockers here and there and gathering what I needed, I realized that I was rapidly feeling worse so I dumped all the containers in the rear berth and went up top to sit a while. Our anchorage was not the best - we were getting some surge from a cut near by and the boat was doing quite a dance. OK - what was the problem I thought? - The fried fish fingers lunch at Ocean Club? Sitting too long hunched over the computer? - but when Bob started to stir fry some vegetables for dinner and I couldn't stand the smell - I knew I was in trouble - I was sea sick! - Sitting below staring at a computer screen in a bouncing boat had done the trick - and there was no going back - there I sat up top (going below again not being a good idea) - and there I stayed until near midnight when the current changed, the rocking stopped and I felt well enough to go below. Bob stayed up top with me and slept on the other seat - nice guy isn't he?

We moved this morning a little further north to anchor in Jack's Bay on Bitter Guana Cay. The wind has dropped and we peacefully bobbed in the glass clear water - once again, we couldn't get over the clarity and colour of the water. (I wish I could upload pictures! Oh well - soon.) John and Madeleine from Chanceux dinghied over to see us ; they are anchored in the next little cove and had been exploring the beach in front of our boat. We met John and Madeleine a couple of weeks ago at a Happy Hour at Scopios restaurant/bar in Black Point - and no in spite of the French name of their boat - they are not from Quebec - they're not even Canadian - but live in New Bern, Maryland. Before joining them later for a drink on Chanceux, we took the dinghy to admire the limestone formations along the water where they were anchored. We were also looking for the cave that John and Madeleine had told us about: it was sitting just above the water and we were able to ease the boat inside to enjoy the light and colours along the walls and ceiling.

Monday, February 23rd: Black Point

We've came back to Black Point for the same reason that most cruisers come here: to anchor in the relatively sheltered harbour, to do laundry at the "best laundromat in the Bahamas" (and it really is) and while the clothes are washing - to check email, and to sit visit with other cruisers over lunch. Chanceux is here as well as Gemini - Joe joined us a big table of cruisers at Lorraine's cafe.

Tonight we moved around the corner to Little Bay and we'll likely stay for a couple of days until the big winds calm down. It's a bit of a walk, but we can still get to the Black Point settlement so tomorrow we'll likely go back to Lorraine s to answer emails and for me to post this blog - and perhaps we'll hit Scorpio's Happy Hour, have one or two $3 drinks (2 rum drinks for $5) and mingle with other cruisers there - if we're lucky, there will be a few that we've already met.

Fun and Adventure in Pipe Creek

I have some great pictures to go with this post but I have to wait until my "system administrator" (Sean) comes at the end of the month and fixes a problem with my computer. I'll upload the pictures then.

Sunday, February 5th: Anchorage at Big Majors

We will not be going south to Georgetown on Great Exuma Island even though it's a popular destination for many boats traveling in the Exumas. Some years, there are as many as 500 boats anchored in the Georgetown harbour - this year there are far fewer - just over 200 (the economy again). Once there, it's possible to become involved in activities of every kind organized by and for cruisers: hobbies, exercise and parties on the beach - stuff like that. Some settle in for the winter, while the more adventuresome travel further still further south to Long Island and beyond. Another time, we might do the same, but not this year. We're content to explore areas close by until our kids arrive at the end of the month and then we'll begin a slow trip north.

We've spent a careful week moving back and forth between the marina at Staniel Cay Yacht Club, the anchorage nearby at Big Majors, and Black Point settlement (3 miles south). We've been careful in that although we've kept an eye out for water colour indicating shallows and rocks, for the most part we've followed charted paths through the water.

As in Georgetown, but to a lesser extent, there's cruisers' society here. The VHF is busy with people calling one another - arranging rendezvous and catching up on news. They have met this year or in years past at happy hours, local fund raisers and beach gatherings announced on the VHF and  at special dinners put on by restaurants, or when they have gathered somewhere to do laundry or email. Many cruisers return again and again to the Bahamas and develop a network of friends here.

When we first arrived, we felt on the outside of it all until we began to run into people we had met earlier in our travels. When you meet cruisers a second or third time, you begin to feel as though you know them. Last night we had Richard and Carole from Kalissa and Joe from Gemini over for drinks.

We first met Richard and Carole in St. Mary's, Georgia. Every year, there is a cruisers' Thanksgiving lunch there and leading up to that, a week of activities. For Thanksgiving, the town supplies roasted oysters followed by turkey with the balance of the meal provided pot luck style by cruisers. Some 80 boats were anchored in the harbour that week. We went to an hors d'ouevres and drinks party (where we met Richard and Carole) but skipped the lunch and moved across the Georgia state border to St. Augustine, Florida where we went to a Thanksgiving lunch provided by the Methodist church. Although we met and lunched with a great couple, who we met again and had over for drinks in Titusville, our decision not to attend the cruisers lunch at St. Mary's was probably a mistake. It's the best networking opportunity going for boaters moving south. Nevertheless, who did we meet up with here at Staniel Cay but Richard and Carole on Kalissa and today we are following them into a sheltered anchorage in Pipe Creek where along with Kalissa, Gemini, and a third boat, Just Ducky, owned by friends of Richard and Carole, we'll wait out Monday night's "blow".

When we rented a Boston Whaler with our friends, Glen and Janet a couple of days ago, we went into the waters in and around Pipe Cay. Janet was surprised at my anxiety over getting into shallow water over rocks. I was the most jumpy person in the boat. She and Glen were much more relaxed. It was perhaps the memory of hearing our dinghy prop grind over rocks on 2 different occasions earlier in our trip in admittedly less transparent water. Finding water deep enough for a keeled boat is a special challenge in this area - and that is why we followed Kalissa. Here was an opportunity to anchor in a pretty and well protected area without the angst of picking our way in among the sandbars and rocks.

Glen and Janet - do you remember the bay that we motored through? and the sailboat anchored there? Well - the boat was Just Ducky. Today, we are one of three boats anchored near her and for the first time ever we have put out 2 anchors to guard against an unwanted "up-anchor" situation in the strong current here. Bob was not thrilled at the idea of setting a second anchor but felt better when both Joes (from Just Ducky and from Gemini) told him that they set a second anchor by taking it out and dropping it from their dinghy. This sounded easier than the method described in guide books where you fall back to set the first anchor and then bring the boat forward again at a 45 degree angle to set the second. In addition to the fact that we don't have a double anchor roller to facilitate feeding out a second anchor, I think that Bob feared that since he would be standing with the anchor at the bow, his crew at the wheel would have trouble getting it right.

Richard and the 2 Joe's went diving and spearing fish today - so tonight at happy hour on Kalissa, we had tasty pieces of sautéed fresh fish, chunks of lobster (from the lobster that Joe caught) as well as hot olive puffs, and raw vegetables and dip. It was supper for most of us. Incidentally on the 3 boats, there are 3 Caroles (with an e) - so that's 2 Joes, 3 Caroles, a Bob and a Richard.

Earlier this afternoon Bob and I got on our snorkeling gear and followed the divers outside into the Exuma Sound. We paddled around and saw a few fish but the chief part of the exercise for me was trying to adjust my mask properly and for both of us - the challenge of getting back into the dingy from the water. To add to the challenge, our dinghy has particularly high puffy sides. Richard and Carole loaned us a dinghy ladder which made the struggle less for me but Bob was determined to climb in by propelling himself forward using his flippers and then finding hand holds in the dinghy to pull himself in. It wasn't easy. He's asleep right now - I wonder why?

We'll give it a go again tomorrow. Richard tells us that colourful fish can be found in places inside this bay. He'll show us where and lend us the dinghy ladder again. Meanwhile, the hunters will be going back "outside" with their spears. But not us - when you still haven't mastered your mask and dinghy return skills, you can hardly think of carrying a spear.

Tuesday, February 17th: Pipe Creek

We didn't snorkel again after all. Instead, Richard and Carole took us walking along trails on a nearby cay. One trail went from the side of the bay where our boats are anchored to a beautiful beach and the open ocean waters of Exuma sound. Following a second trail, we climbed to a high point on the cay to see a stunning view: on one side, a beach of white sand and black, grey or white faced limestone rocks rising out of the blue ocean and looking back toward our boats, the enclosed bay where the water is patterned in strips of transparent yellow sandbars and aqua, and turquoise water.

We had more seafood at happy hour. Joe (from Gemini) caught 2 large lobsters - one being particularly humongous - so that there was plenty of meat for us to put together dinner. Carole from Kalissa made bean salad and I made potato salad. While eating and socializing on Gemini (a Tartan 37), we were lucky to watch an outstanding sunset and as per the custom among certain cruisers in the Bahamas, some in the group blew the conch shell to mark the disappearance of the sun. Richard does an excellent job of producing a loud clear tone. Bob gave it a try as well. His high school trombone experience paid off and he was able to get a decent and sustained sound and then, with some success, he blew the first notes of Taps.

We've also had a little excitement in the bay. In the late afternoon, Carole and Richard noticed a boat off in a part of the bay where the water is very shallow. Bob grabbed the binoculars to see for himself. It seemed likely that the boat had gone aground. The skipper was pacing back and forth on the deck. The boat wasn't moving and the anchor wasn't down. Finally, Bob and Joe from Just Ducky got into their dinghies and rode over to see what was happening. The fellow on the boat was very happy to see them. Joe had brought his hand held depth finder so that he could tell the captain where the deeper water was and also gave him some advise for strategies to get the boat off the sandbar where he was good and stuck. There would be no hope of that until the tide came up at about midnight. Just before we went to bed, Bob called to check on the stuck boat (Water Music) and he and Joe both talked to the captain. Joe assured the captain that if he found himself in further trouble that he could call - the VHF would be on all night - and somehow he and Bob would come and try to help (we left our VHF on as well). The captain said that they'd been doing a lot of crying (in the background we could hear his wife laughing at that) - he also shakily admitted, that it was very good "to hear their voices". The following morning he called: at high tide, he had been able to get Water Music off of the sandbar by pulling in the anchors he had deployed in deeper water. Imagine doing that in pitch dark at midnight!

Kalissa and Gemini are leaving today. They'll do laundry in Blackpoint and then Kalissa is leaving to head south to Georgetown. We'll hang in at the anchorage another day or two and then move to someplace new but close by. We don't want to get too far away before our company arrives and anyway - it's unlikely that we'll find many other places as beautiful as this.

Warm Days at Staniel Cay

Yesterday was the first day warm enough to swim comfortably. We got on our bathing suits and climbed down the ladder on our swim platform. Now that's what being in the Bahamas is supposed to be all about!

We've been back and forth between 2 anchorages - one near Staniel Cay and a second about an hour south (by slow sailboat) near the Black Point settlement. From both, we've dinghied to shore, visited the local small grocery stores and hung out at the Internet cafes. We've talked to sailors that we met earlier along the ICW and others that we've newly met. Everyone is friendly and full of information about what's what in the area and best spots to explore. We've dinghied to nearby beaches and walked along the sand and we've had a quick look at the wild pigs on the beach at Big Majors.


Our friends, Glen and Janet flew in yesterday from Nassau - they came for an overnight stay at one of the cottages at Staniel Cay. We borrowed bikes from the yacht club and went over to the tip of the cay where we could walk out to look at Exuma Sound on one side and the Bahama Bank waters on the other. We hit all 3 grocery stores along the way to see what new supplies had been brought in by the mail boat that day. Glen and Janet kindly brought us some veggies and fruit from Nassau and we added more vegetables and fruit as well as eggs, several milk tetra packs and even some meat. We're set for a while.

Today along with the Wilsons, we returned to "pig beach", this time with carrots, and watched the pigs swim out for a snack. They are "wild" pigs - turned loose on the cay by someone long ago. Glen is skeptical. The shelter built for them beyond the beach gave weight to his conviction that they are meant as a tourist attraction and are not "wild" at all. After feeding the pigs, we set out on a small rented Boston Whaler, and did a little exploring in shallow waters near by.

When we arrived here, we came through this cut.

Looking out at Exuma Sound from Staniel Cay on a very calm day - the water was much more exciting when we arrived!

Glen and Janet

So this is the EXUMAS -a capital place - sparkling clear water in brilliant almost neon blues and greens. Few stores - no banks (a cash society for the most part) - challenging provisioning - friendly people - warm sunny skies - kicking back - lazy days - fun times with good friends.

Sunset seen from Sea Change at anchor at Big Majors: an anchorage near Staniel Cay

Note to the Dixons

Hi to the Dixons - I don't get an email address when you post a comment so can't reply directly but just wanted to say that it would be fun to have a visit with you in the Bahamas! Keep in touch. caroleanoble@rogers.com

Here at Staniel Cay

To those of you that are following the blog regularly so as to keep track of us, just wanted to let you know that here in the Exumas, it's not going to be easy for us to get a place with Internet access so I may not be blogging with my usual frequency. Also - as much as I'd like to upload pictures of this beautiful place - that might be even harder since it can take a long time to upload pictures when the connection isn't a fast one. We'll see how it all goes.

We have stayed at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club for 2 nights but will be leaving to anchor nearby for the rest of the week - until our friends arrive from Nasseau next Thursday. By then we should have a better handle on what this place is all about.

Today the sun is out and it's warm --- and if there's one thing to say about this place, it's this - it's breathtakingly beautiful.

Bumpy Voyage to a Lovely Place

Saturday, February 7th: Staniel Cay

Two nights before we left Hatchet Bay, Bill, Mary, Bob and I hired a taxi to take us to the nearby town of Governor's Harbour in search of a restaurant for dinner. The homes we saw along the road were large and beautiful - most likely belonging to outsiders who winter there or have moved to the island to retire. (In Hatchet Bay we had met 2 Canadian couples who were building homes on the island. The people owning a well known restaurant nearby are from Newmarket and we met another family from Pickering who have rented a home in the area every winter for 20 years.) We ate at Nippy's just south of Governor's Harbour - a pretty little town - different again from others that we have seen. Nippy's sits on a hill overlooking the water - the view was gorgeous and we had a good meal and a good time. As it happened, this would be our last evening with the Mursells. The next day, they decided that they would stay put and perhaps head back to the Abacos Islands when weather allowed.

On Thursday morning, Sea Change and Trilogy left Hatchet Bay to sail south. With northeast winds pushing us along, we had a quick and easy motor sail to Powell Point at the tip of Eleuthera - but when we arrived at the Cape Eleuthera Marina where we would be staying, we were disappointed to see that there was only a low and narrow strip of land between marina docks and the winds and waters of Exuma Sound. We would have to dock in a pilings and fixed small dock slip while being pushed by stiff wind blowing off the Sound.

The hardest part of the day proved to be getting the boat safely secured. As we moved into the slip, I threw a line over one of 2 wooden brackets meant to hold a loop of line around the first piling we passed. That turned out to be a bad move. We soon discovered that the piling was too far back - our line wasn't long enough to loop back and tie off on the boat - and because the line was only around the bracket and not looped right around the piling, it got jammed. To get it out, the 2 men holding our bow lines eased off, and with the wind pushing us away, Bob had to somehow pull the boat closer so that we could yank up on the line to free it. Eventually, with much loud direction from the skipper (yelling) and running around of the first mate, we managed to get lines where they needed to be. We're beginning to know what to do- but the skill required to get lines over pilings as we slide by has yet to be developed! ( Apparently, I now find out, you're supposed to use a boat hook with the line hooked in it and then raised over the piling and dropped so to be caught by the brackets -- ah, ha!)

After getting settled, we had Mike, Darlene and their daughter, Tasha (from Trilogy) for drinks before dinner. They would be moving on the next day to San Salvador island  and would be anchoring in a protected bay in preparation for the promised bad weather weekend. We could either stay at the marina until better weather arrived - possibly by Tuesday or Wednesday - or make another run for it (so to speak). The prospect of staying for several days at a marina in the middle of nowhere while being continually bounced around by winds sweeping in from the Sound was not appealing. We had one more day of travel opportunity with NE winds of 20 knots winds that would push us south into the Exumas. (Never mind that on Lake Ontario it's unlikely that we would have set out in such winds.) We resolved to leave the next day.

I hit upon the idea of sailing directly to Staniel Cay. Our friends would be staying there next week, and we had intended to visit with them if we could safely arrive in time. When we consulted the chart, we found that the route to Staniel Cay was only slightly longer than to other Exumas destinations we had been considering. We decided to go for it. A side note - waves in open ocean waters were predicted to be from 6 - 9 feet. However, Mike reminded us that the 3-5 ft. closer together waves on the Bahamas Bank were harder to manage than 6-9 ft rolling ocean waves in the Sound where we would be sailing.

Friday morning, with the help of Mike and Darlene, we were able to extricate ourselves from the slip without mishap. Before we left - Mike and I had exchanged baking - he had made brownies the night before and brought us some while I had wrapped up the last of some home made banana bread for them. It was a surprise to both of us when we ended up doing a bake exchange.

The first part of the trip was easy - we had 20 knots of wind behind us and a following sea. We were lifted up by big waves (5 or 6 ft?) and then surfed down them and we were making good time. As the day wore on, wave height increased (the predicted 6-9 ft.? - probably); the waves came from behind but sometimes as the boat dipped and the wind pushed it to the side, a following wave would come at the boat on the beam so that the side of the boat would ride up the wave sideways and then back down - loose books and other objects went flying to the floor and dishes crashed against the cupboard doors. Periodically, a wave broke over the side of the boat showering crew and cockpit in salt water. We were grateful for our seaworthy boat -but also relieved when we eventually saw Staniel Cay ahead. The crossing took only 6 1/2 hours - and by the end - that seemed plenty long enough.

Now we would venture in through Big Rock Cut and find our way to the marina. Mike had helpfully written out for us the time of high tide and best times to travel through the Exuma cuts - i.e. before the tide begins to fall causing water to rush from the Bahama Bank back into the Sound and against a boat trying to move in through the cut. We were well within the time window and the knowledge had allowed us to put our worry about it aside. Once through the cut, we were looking at many hued water. This is where we would begin to navigate by reading water colour, especially watching for the lighter blues of shallow water, and the brown of coral heads and reefs.

We had decided to spend the weekend at the Staniel Cay Marina. We had no energy left to scout out anchorages with protection from the coming cold front and wanted to be tied up safe and sound until we studied possibilities around us. We were tired and just wanted to sit. Usually after docking, I want to go walking and exploring, or find WiFi to check email. I had no desire to go into the restaurant/bar to use the WiFi there or to get on my walking shoes. That could wait - I made tea and sat down with my book.

We ate at the little restaurant here last night - but today, I spent half the day in my PJs - and Bob did boat chores. We are out and about this aft. - the sun is out and the views are beautiful. I'll bring my camera next time and upload pictures of the awesome scenery here.

Our friends arrive next Thursday, so we'll be here to have a good visit with them. Hopefully, the weather will warm some before then. After that, we may go north to spend a few days in the Warderick Wells Land and Sea park but we'll time our stay carefully looking ahead to the weather so that we don't get stuck - unable to return in time to greet Krista, Sean and Michelle when they fly in to Staniel Cay at the end of the month. For the next few weeks, there will be no more pushing forward. We're going to chill and enjoy this beautiful place.

On the Wall in Hatchet Bay

Wednesday, February 4th: Hatchet Bay

It's a workout climbing on and off of the boat when the tide is low - here at the wall - or at any marina where the docks are "fixed" and don't float up and down with the tide.

We're in Hachet Bay, tied up along the 'government dock" - actually a stone wall. We came in through what looks like a too narrow gap between rock faces where eddies of water threw the boat around and gave us a scare. Then we scouted the area. The moorings were full and along the wall there was space but we couldn't see places to attach lines. When the Mursells arrived we gave them the info over the VHF and someone who was listening in (as is usual - everyone does it) broke in to explain that the wall did have tie up "cleats" and that we could tie up anywhere as long as we didn't go where the tires hang - i.e where the big freighters come in. So Bob and I went in first and with boat hooks and holding our mouth right and all manner of tricks, we managed to get lines through the round metal thingies sticking out of the cement at the top of the wall. Once we were secure, we climbed up on top and waited to catch and attach lines for the Mursells.

Not long after that Mike and Darlene on Trilogy arrived. They had been on the dock beside us at Spanish Wells. We called them on the VHF to tell them that there was room on the wall in front of our boats - and then we pulled both boats back a little and retied them so as to make more room for their boat.

We were glad to be tied up securely when gale force winds swept in night before last. By early morning, there were winds unlike any we had encountered before. Both Bob and Bill were up out of bed adding extra fenders to buffer the boats as the wind pounded them against the wall.

Now we're waiting for another escape opportunity. We've been here 3 nights on the wall. The good news is that it's free. The bad new is that there are no services. We are all looking forward to being at anchor somewhere where we can slip into the water to swim or at a marina where we can have an on shore shower and let lots of hot water pour over us.

Luckily, just up the hill, there is a place to buy water. Bob asked for 40 gallons worth and they brought large jugs to the boat that Bob used to top up our water tanks and refill the extra blue jerry cans sitting on our deck.

We weren't long in town before we found out where to get WiFi access. Our first afternoon we walked quickly around town - visited the grocery store to check it out and then walked along to the Water's Edge Internet Cafe. Bill and Mary were already there deep into checking their email. Here we are again today. We came for lunch and email: hot dogs, hamburgers, delicious home made fries and smoothies. Out on the little deck, sailors sit and talk about where they've been - where to go next - about the weather - the direction of the wind - the next cold front.

Mike and Darlene (from Trilogy) rented a car to pick their daughter up from the Governor's Harbor airport - they dropped by yesterday and offered to take us along with them to drive out to see the Glass Window - a narrow piece of land joining 2 parts of the island. At one time there was a natural bridge over a narrow cut of water but that was destroyed in the 1920s by a hurricane. Now a man made bridge joins the 2 points of land. Underneath the water runs from the dark blue Atlantic to the protected aqua coloured shallower waters on the other side.



This morning Mike stopped by with his rental car. He was going to build a fire in a cave that he and Darlene had found while out walking - and was going to cook up some eggs. Would we all like to come along? He would drive us there. We dropped everything, packed up a carton of eggs and we were off. After getting out of the car we walked along the beach to find Darlene, their daughter Sasha, and another sailing couple, Kathy and Les already gathering fuel for the fire. Miraculously - it seemed to me - Mike cooked up a pan of eggs, they were topped with grated cheese (courtesy Kathy and Les), and then put between slices of bread with ham that Mary and Bill had brought along, et voila! The egg, ham and cheese sandwich was very good - and we to hold and eat our breakfast without using plates. Good thing! - There weren't any!

To save Mike making a couple of trips with the car to get us all back to our boats, Bob and I walked back with Kathy and Les - luckily they had walked the route before and knew where to get off the beach and back onto the road. It was a fun morning.

The weather for the next few days isn't promising - another cold front is coming through. We have to make our break tomorrow and hope to get as far as Cape Eleuthera. There is a rather expensive marina there where we will either stay one night before making the hop across to the Exumas - or we will have to stay there to wait out the bad weather coming up on the weekend. We phoned Chris Parker this morning. He says that we have 2 traveling days to get to where ever we can be safe and secure for Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

Walking back this morning

Goodbye, Spanish Wells

Saturday, January 31: Spanish Wells

Tomorrow we hope to make our get-away from Spanish Wells. The newness of this unique little place has worn off: we've been in every store at least once and the grocery store, 4 times. We've had 2 golf cart rides: ask for directions and they tell you to hop in and we've ridden with the manager and co-owner of Ronald's Seafood (and marine store) in his truck and a young mother and her child another time.

Some Spanish Wells residents are descendants of Loyalist settlers; others claim to be descendants of adventurers who shipwrecked nearby. This Methodist community, the only one in the Bahamas, is "dry" - no liquor sold or served. The fishing industry and not tourism drive the economy - there are no cutesy tourist shops selling "native crafts". The only hotel/ motel we saw didn't appear to be open. Strangers in town are confined to a few boaters like ourselves staying at a marina which shares the waterfront with large well kept fishing boats.

The few stores wear many hats, so to speak. When the "computer guy" at the school supply store wasn't going to be in, I asked if there was anyone else who could help me and I was directed to "Manual's Dive" down the road. Since Spanish Wells accents are quite unique (sometimes they like sound to us like they have marbles in their mouths, sometimes like they've just arrived from South Africa - or is it Ireland??) - I had to ask several times what the nice young lady was saying and finally had to have her write it down. (I'm sure that I caught her rolling her eyes...) - Anyway, she wrote "Manual's Dive Station" - so we walked to the dive shop where another computer guy works and where along with dive equipment and snorkels, etc. there are a few computer peripherals and (among other things), live chicks sitting in a glassed in light bulb heated cage in from of the store for $2 a piece, cartons of eggs, and crocks (the shoes).

Bill and I have both had our hair cut in Mrs. J's hair salon/shed. Bill was pleased with his cut - mine is OK, I guess - it's shorter, that's for sure but the bangs look as though they were cut along a bowl placed over my head and they are just a little shorter on one side. The cut was done on dry hair, took just over 15 minutes and cost $10 - perhaps I should splurged and gone to the salon on the main road.

We have walked the main road many times checking out the stores strung out at some distance between homes. One must walk carefully - there is no sidewalk so the trick is to keep as far to the side as possible without being mown down. Cars and carts drive British style, on the "wrong" side of the road. We have had to keep reminding ourselves which way to look before crossing. All vehicles tear along the road - no speed limits posted. We have thought more than once of how ironic it would be to come all of the way safely and then be hit by a golf cart.

The next adventure is getting through Current Cut tomorrow - at the right time so that the current carries us along and we're not against it - it can be as much as 6 knots - too much for a sailboat engine to go against. There have been many questions to locals and much calculation to determine when the best time to leave will be - after that we'll just keep our fingers crossed - can't do any harm!