We're Home!

Michelle, Sean, Krista and the Birthday Boy

We've jumped into Christmas preparations. Home on Friday, tree up on Sunday.

Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas from Bob and Carole

Today it's cloudy and there's been quite a bit of rain - just like Christmas in Vancouver during the years that Bob and I lived there - but warmer, of course.

Tomorrow we fly home to the Canadian winter but we'll be back on January 2nd. Once we get started on the next phase of our trip - I'll begin to blog again. Next stop - Lake Worth, maybe Fort Lauderdale, maybe Miami all as possible staging points for our voyage to the Bahamas. Happy Holidays!

Final Week in Florida

Sunday, December 7th: Fort Pierce

We've been traveling for the last few days with the Woolseys and have now entered "Central Florida" - more populated and with a much busier waterway. Since many people call the ICW "the ditch", I pictured (especially here) a ditch-like ribbon of water - however, except for short land cuts that are quite narrow, the waterways themselves are broad - but the path through which boats move, where the depth can accommodate them, is the "ditch" part - it's the dredged and marked channel that you must follow to avoid running aground and running aground is easily done if your mind or your boat wander - well - usually first one happens and then the other.

Now we are in the land of "zippy" small, medium and large boats speeding along the marked channel. Cruisers on their way south notify each other when they are passing and they slow down to try to reduce the wake that rocks slow boats about. Polite talk and well wishing abound. "Thanks for the slow pass and have a nice day". In contrast, seldom do local boats slow at all. Their boats are fast and it's considered A-OK to go as fast as they can - so we do a little and sometimes a lot of rocking and rolling. The crowning experience was yesterday when a large open sport fishing boat roared past us. I was at the helm and as I turned to see what was coming, the fellow at the wheel appeared to have his mouth twisted into a menacing growl (I couldn't hear him but I think he must have been growling) - and he raised his hand to give me the one finger salute. It made me laugh - was he trying to say "Welcome to Florida"? - More likely he wanted to let us know - if you think that I'm going to slow down for you, you have another think coming! (or something like that).

Houses along a canal near Eau Gallie, Florida

Since we left Daytona, we've had a couple of unusual stops. The first was at the Eau Gallie Yacht Club in Eau Gallie - a resort town on the ocean. The yacht club itself sits on a canal just off the ICW. A reciprocal agreement with the our club allowed us to stay for a reasonable fee. It's quite an upscale place with a pool (too cold to swim they said), a fancy club house and a second building for casual dining where most of the younger crowd seemed to be. We had dinner at the club house with the Woolseys (and what does that say about us??) - it was hopping - lots of activities going on for the weekend and very prettily decorated for Christmas.

The Atlantic at Vero Beach

The following night we spent on a mooring ball at Vero Beach. No anchoring is allowed but the city marina maintains a large mooring field - and to stay for the night, it was (with tax) - $12.12. Not bad, eh - no wonder it was so busy. You can reserve a spot ahead but you are expected to raft with 2 other boats - it's always kind of fun to raft (for a night or 2). It's a pretty area also - nice homes near by on well landscaped treed lots and along the canals leading off of the ICW, more homes - many with their own docks and boats and all attractive with palm trees and gardens. A 3/4 mile walk from the marina took us to the ocean beach. On land near the dinghy dock where people were gathered to do laundry, use the showers and just stand and chat with other boaters, there was a friendly "boaters going south" atmosphere.

Sea Change, Somewhere in Time and Hydrotherapy moored at Vero Beach

We're now in Fort Pierce at the marina where we're leaving our boat for a month. We have 4 days before we fly home for Christmas, and have a list of jobs to do which will begin in earnest tomorrow. We can't say that we feel "Christmasy" in spite of palm trees ringed with lights and blow up snowmen on the top of a boat here and there. We'll have to get back to "real" Christmas weather, cold though it may be, before we feel like singing Christmas carols.

About St. Augustine / Woolsey Sighting in Daytona

Tuesday, December 2nd: Daytona

On Saturday, after we arrived at St. Augustine, we had a quick lunch and went in to shore to have a look see. St. Augustine Marina charges $10 a day for using their dinghy dock but the fee also entitles you to use their showers, lounge/laundry room and to dispose of your garbage. We paid our fee, got the sticker on our dinghy and set out.

As we rounded the corner of the marina building, it was like stepping into the middle of Canada's Wonderland on a busy day. The trolley tour pick up spot was immediately in front of the marina. Trolleys (actually buses looking like trolleys) were lined up and leaving full one after another with a clang of bells and the sound of the driver's spiel over the microphone. The streets were packed with people. Bob was confused - he'd been to St. Augustine before with his golfing buddies and this was not what he remembered. Finally we realized. It was the Thanksgiving holiday weekend.

We walked by historic buildings with stunning architecture and then turned toward the fort - Castillo de San Marcos. St. Augustine was founded in 1565 as a Spanish military outpost. It is the oldest "continually occupied European settlement" in the US and we found ourselves on narrow streets where no cars are allowed and squat buildings running together that point to an earlier time - but on that day, the masses of people everywhere made it all seem a bit "Disneylandish". Nevertheless, we made plans to visit the fort and tour the old Hotel Ponce de Leon (now a college) the following day.

We knew that there would be rain Sunday afternoon, but we ignored the imperative for all good sailors to listen to the weather each morning. Just before noon, when we had finished walking around the fort, we looked over to check our anchored boat. The head sail was showing a triangle of flapping sail that had come partially unfurled. It couldn't be left that way so we walked back to the marina where Captain Bob immediately headed for the dinghy dock and I went to the laundry/lounge room to check on email. When I got there the talk was of a coming storm - high winds and rain. It was no surprise to me when Bob reappeared saying that we had to get back to the boat - there could be no walking about town and leaving it exposed as it was at anchor. Our dinghy engine took a while to start (sound familiar?) - possibly it was "flooded" and while Bob pulled away at the starter cord and I stood waiting, the heavens opened and a nasty rain soaked us both - oh well. By evening, the storm had passed and Sea Change was still anchored where she should be. We'd seen very little of St. Augustine but still we decided to leave next day.

Monday morning we pulled anchor and went through the Bridge of Lions at the 7:30 a.m. opening, stopping at the marina dock on the other side to diesel up in preparation for moving on to Daytona - but when we got to the dock, the sun came out and with unused tour tickets still in our pockets, we thought, why not stay another day? - so we pulled into a slot at the marina and spent the morning taking advantage of marina conveniences. Bob changed the engine oil and was able to dispose of the old oil safely while there. I did laundry and caught up on email. In the afternoon, we went touring again.

What a difference! With the holiday hordes gone, St. Augustine had a completely different look. It was charming and interesting with small cafes and artsy shops of all kinds. We had lunch at the Columbia restaurant which serves Spanish food (in keeping with the city's Spanish history) and then went on our tour of the Hotel Ponce de Leon. The hotel is now Flagler college, named after the man who built the hotel - Henry Flagler. Flagler built several other hotels, among them the Breakers in West Palm Beach where, in our other life, Bob and I attended 3 conventions. Flagler also co-founded Standard Oil with John D. Rockefeller and built a railroad all the way to the Keys. (The Keys part of the railroad didn't last long - it was destroyed by the first hurricane that hit it.)

In addition to educating 1900 students, Flagler College has a mandate to restore the building and, where possible, maintain it as it was during the 19th century when it was an opulent and luxurious hotel. Flagler also built the Alcazar Hotel across the street which had the largest indoor pool in the country (in 1888) and as well as a sulfur springs spa. The Alcazar has become the Lightner Museum and houses a collection of 19th century art and decorative pieces. We toured that building as well. I found the interiors of both buildings breath taking.

We will try to stop by St. Augustine again on the way back. There's a little Polish cafe that sells cabbage rolls, fruit pirogies and waffles with toppings of all kinds where it would be fun to lunch - but this time - we contented ourselves with buying a giant cabbage roll to take back to the boat and perk up our leftovers dinner. We were glad to have had this most enjoyable day - oil change, laundry, tours and all - in St. Augustine.

Dining room of the former Hotel Ponce de Leon - now used by the students of Flagler College

Wednesday, December 3rd: Daytona

Yesterday afternoon, we anchored just outside of Halifax harbour in Daytona. Today we went into town to do chores: haircuts for both of us, visit to West Marine to check on a "dry bed" system, visit to the library to do email, lunch.

The manager at West Marine said that he uses "Dri-Deck" fit together plastic squares to put under the bed on his boat and that they work well. Bob decided that we would give it a try and bought a box of squares which he is now fitting under our mattress. The mattress is up in the cockpit to get a good drying in the Florida sun.

True to form - when you get to the big city, it's hard to find free Web access. Today we had no luck. Even the library charges for Internet access and they don't have wireless at all. We paid $5 and each spent some time doing email.
The Woolseys are in town! They arrived today and we have a date for drinks with them before dinner - but as we were walking back to the dinghy, we met them coming out of the marina. We'll travel with them to Titusville tomorrow.

Anchored at St. Augustine

Sea Change is second from the left. Castillo de San Marcos is in the background.

Looking toward the city from the cockpit of Sea Change

Ins and Outs of Docking Along the Way

Saturday, November 29th: St. Augustine

I've done a lot of complaining about docking against pilings so I thought I should set the record straight. The first time we encountered pilings along a dock was at Sandy Hook NY. We wanted to top up the diesel before dropping anchor so we went over to a gas dock beside the marina there. As we approached, we saw a figure walk away (it was dusk) but we weren't sure whether someone else was in the hut that stood on the dock so we proceeded to get lines and fenders ready, hanging the fenders vertically as we always do. We had a big question mark in our heads as to how we would secure the boat - but we continued moving in. The wind was pushing us against the dock - not necessarily a bad thing - but with the current pushing as well, the boat began to grind against the pilings with the fenders rolling along and not providing much cushion. I tried to fend off but with so much push on the boat, I couldn't begin to hold the boat off. We sat for a moment pinned against the dock while I used the binoculars to read the sign on the hut door - they closed at 4:30 - it was just minutes after. The quick moving figure that we had seen was the dock attendant making his get away. As we backed away, one of the fenders got caught on a piling, pulling hard and stretching the tied line until the fender eventually popped free. The clove hitch that I had used to tie the fender, normally a knot that is easy to loosen, had pulled so tight that Bob had to work pry it free - I wasn't strong enough for that either. Once at anchor, we checked out the the teak rail and found scrapes and gouges all along the boat's midline.

By the time we docked again against pilings at the gas dock in Cape May, Bob had figured out that we should pull the line through the fender until the fender hung in the middle and could be tied at each end to hang horizontally across the side of the boat. By tying two or three fenders in a row with adjacent lines overlapped so that the fenders sat close together, we had much better protection. That day, we again had current and winds pushing us into the dock but this time the wind was blowing hard and that presented additional problems. We had help at the dock this time - which was good because we were docking behind the Woolseys and I wouldn't have wanted to be responsible for winding a line around a piling in time to keep our boat from being driven into their boat! Backing out of that spot was a feat in itself with Bob and John stategizing about which line to leave attached (with me holding the other end to pull it back) while Bob used the engine. As it was, after we were clear of the dock, Bob glanced behind him to see another dock running directly across our stern. Fortunately, Sea Change turns well even when backing up and Bob was able to rev up the engine and turn quickly to avoid a hit.

Those were our two worst experiences and they were due in part to adverse conditions, no help at all at the first docking, strong winds and current at the second, and in both cases to some extent, our own lack of experience (particularly at Sandy Hook). From then on, we approached such docks with trepidation, but we were better prepared and there was always an attendant there to help. We had no major problems after that.

The last of the funny little docks with 2 pilings at the stern and 2 pilings for the bow tie up was at the town of Oriental in North Carolina. After that and following a string of 5 nights at anchor, we docked at Charleston at a "conventional" (what we are used to) finger dock with cleats. From then on the docks had cleats and the marinas sent dock attendants to assist.

As we moved into Georgia where the currents are particularly strong due to great tidal differences (as much as 8 feet), docks at most marinas along the waterway were parallel to the river to enable boats to dock going into the current. Docking at right angles to current is very difficult. We typically phoned before going into the gas dock (as most people seem to do) and then we were given suggestions as to whether to approach the dock on our starboard or port side. We have found in all cases, that the dock attendants were very good at handling the lines and also at coaching us on the best way to get away from the dock. Sometimes, instead of backing out as Bob would be prone to do, the dock attendant suggested that we go out bow first. He would hold our stern line around a dock cleat while Bob put the boat into forward to push the bow away from the dock, then the attendant would throw the line aboard and give push the boat away from the dock with the idea being that once out the current caught the bow, Bob could "gun" it to get us well away. Whew, I say!

At marinas south of Oriental, there has almost always been someone to catch a line, docks are long, or if not long, they're long enough and there are plenty of well placed cleats so that I can get off and put a line around one to pull the boat in at the stern and stop it (if need be). Experience counts for a lot and the bad experiences have been valuable teachers. We certainly feel more "in the know" on this part of our trip.

We've just arrived at St. Augustine. There were no worries today about lines, fenders, docks or winds - we anchored. - and we're probably over confident since we haven't dragged at anchor ---- yet!

Florida - Here We Come!

Tuesday, November 25th: St. Mary's

The fellow who installed the solenoid to remedy our starting problem need no longer be called "mechanic #3". On the first push of the button, the engine has started every single time in the last three days. This is exemplary behavior for our erratic starter and we dare to think that our starter problems are in the past. I told Dan that if the engine behaved, then I'd mention him in the blog, so if you happen to be in south Georgia and you have a problem with just about anything on your boat, consider calling Dan Agmon, Agmon Marine Service, Savannah.

Since leaving the Isle of Hope, we are spending our third night at anchor. The first 2 nights, we moved off the ICW up rivers to where the water was deep enough (but not too deep) and where there were trees offering protection from winds. Each anchorage had it's own beauty and I pulled out the camera to take pictures of trees reflected in water and another perfect sunset and sunrise.

We debated today whether we should stop at St. Marys, at the very southern tip of Georgia or cross into Florida and spend the night in Fernandina. There is a huge anchorage in front of the town of St. Marys and in Fernandina for $15, we could stay on a mooring ball (if one were available) and have use of marina facilities. Since we stopped this afternoon at Jekyll Island Marina for a diesel fill-up, a pump-out and water top-up, we are good to hang on the hook comfortably - so we elected to check out St. Marys.

The ICW as it winds through Georgia is picturesque but challenging. There has been no money for dredging for 6 years and in some areas the water is very "skinny" - especially at low tide. Tidal variation can be as much as 8 feet. Not far from St. Marys but still along the ICW, we saw a sailboat that had gone aground. The keel was dug in and the boat, laying on it's side with the dinghy sitting at its stern resting on the sand. The sailboat was on the wrong side of the red marker. Perhaps a moment's inattention? The captain was standing on the transom at the back of the boat and a Seatow boat was circling around. There would be no hope of getting free until the tide rose.

A sailor who been traveling on the ICW at about the same time that we were, told us that not long after we had gone through the area called Mud Creek, 3 boats had gone aground. They were probably on the low end of the falling tide. Such news makes us doubly careful to watch our charts and attend to navigation aids.

But back to more carefree thoughts - we walked along St Marys' main street today. There is a narrow boulevard right up the centre said to be a product of its Spanish origin. Along the boulevard there are palm trees with Christmas wreaths on them. Among the cafes and stores along the street, there are homes with gardens. I really felt that I was in "the south" when I saw a tree with pink flowers hugging the side of one of the homes. This is an attractive town and with palms, pines, palmettos, and live oaks everywhere - the air was fragrant - mmm - it smelled good!

The town of St. Mary's puts on a Thanksgiving "pot-luck" lunch for boaters on Thanksgiving (Thursday). They supply the turkey and the boaters bring the sides. There are also other group events in the days before Thanksgiving. We'll possibly join in at some point but we're not sure about hanging in until Thursday.

Thursday, November 27th: Fernandina

Yesterday we did 2 very fun things.

The first was our ferry trip to Cumberland Island. We left at 11:45 a.m. and spent the day. 90% of the island is a "National Seashore Reserve". Visitors bring their own food and drink as nothing is sold on the island. Garbage must be carried out - there are no garbage cans there either.

Once on the island, we were free to explore the salt marshes, maritime forest, long sandy beaches and the dunes behind them. We disembarked at the first of 2 docks where we could take a guided walk and learn about the islands' history: its early Indian inhabitants, the families of European immigrants who cultivated the land and built plantations, and the Carnegie family who bought up most of the island, built a winter home and homes for the Carnegie children. Eventually, according to the wishes of Lucy Carnegie who had survived her husband, the Carnegie lands were deeded to the National Forest Reserve. As current Carnegie descendants on the island die, their homes and lands also become part of the reserve.

While we stood listening to the guide, a pure white horse came galloping out of the bush and ran across the road behind us. This was one of the 124 wild horses that live on the island. We walked along a dirt road through the maritime forest and saw a fawn peeking out from behind palmettos, an armadillo rummaging through forest undergrowth, a tiny snake resting on the dirt road, and more wild horses grazing in grassy spaces. At the end of the tour, we found ourselves beside the ruins of Dungeness, the mansion built for the Carnegies in the mid 1880s.

After the tour we walked on a board walk over the salt marshes, watched water birds feeding in mud banks exposed at low tide and then walked along a beautiful beach of fine white sand. It was a wonderful day.

The second fun thing was our visit to the pot luck hors d'oeuvres gathering for boaters at the Seagle hotel . It's great to be able to walk into such a friendly gathering of people who all have in common their love of being on the water and this trip down the coast in search of warm weather and new experiences. It also feels good to be able to walk in after a day outside carrying your backpack - in your super casual clothes, with hat head and hair sticking up here and there, and feel totally comfortable. No one is dressed up or beautifully coiffed. We had a great time talking about our experiences, our destinations, and trading information on where it's good to go and where it's not. As newbies in the group - "it's your first time?" they said - we did lots of listening and information gathering.

We were especially lucky to be able to reserve a mooring ball at the Fernandina harbour Marina for today and so here we sit on a sunny and warm (yes warm!) day - and guess what - we went to a Thanksgiving lunch after all - here in Fernandina. We dinghied in to check in at the office and to have a shower and were told by another boater about the free Thanksgiving lunch at the Methodist church up the street. So off we went along with another couple of sailors we had just met and had a full Thanksgiving meal with all the trimmings. How good is that? 

Friday, November 28th: Jacksonville Beach

Everything was closed yesterday so we thought that we would stay in Fernandina today to get groceries, do the laundry and have a further look around. Fernandina is a pretty town with buildings in the Spanish style along the main street and elaborate gingerbread trim on historic homes on streets in behind. But last night the wind changed sending us the awful smell of the pulp mill that sits right beside the town and we could hear it humming all night as well. If we weren't already rethinking our plans, the final straw was the clanking of our mooring ball against the boat hull. The current had turned and was pushing our boat up against it. We got up and got out. So much for Fernandina.

We're now at Jacksonville Beach. I assure you that there is no beach in sight where we are although there must be one somewhere. We chose this destination because the marina is close to a grocery store and has laundry facilities. Picturesque it's not. So we've put another 30 miles behind us and will be able to get to St. Augustine tomorrow, we've done the grocery shopping and laundry --- and Bob has used our access to water at the dock to scrub the boat thoroughly. We're going out to dinner tonight - we're too pooped to cook and do dishes.

We expect to enjoy St. Augustine - I haven't been there but Bob has and he tells me it's a must see place.

Hope of a Fix (at the Isle of Hope)

Saturday, November 22nd: The Isle of Hope, GA

Thursday we left Beaufort and the engine started right away. Bob had spent some time tightening up connections and we were hopeful that starting problems were behind us. We spent the day following the ICW as it snaked it's way out of South Carolina into Georgia and at 4:00 p.m., we arrived at a marina on the Isle of Hope - pulled into the gas dock - stopped the engine - filled up with diesel and then attempted to start the engine. Click, click, click. Once again Bob was defeated - time to try another mechanic. At 8:00 the following morning, mechanic # 3 came on board.

Mechanic #3 shall remain nameless. I told him that if he had hit upon the fix for our starting problem, I would put his name in my blog - lots of people would know that he had fixed what others couldn't. He said good but don't mention him otherwise :)

#3 thought the problem was in the start button itself - that it was not always making the connection - and he installed a soleniod between the start button and the start engine. Of course the engine started when he was here. It always behaves for a while after a visit from a mechanic. We'll see how what happens tomorrow - and the next day ---

Today we took an hour long bus ride into Savannah (20 minutes by car) - Bob says "Tell about how you got on the bus and asked if it went to Charleston?" - The bus driver had the strangest look on his face. He didn't answer. I guess he was speechless. Bob told the bus driver that I was in "a time warp".

Anyway -
Savannah is a city that is very serious about preserving it's history. New homes are built to resemble historic homes around them. Old homes cannot be torn down. High rises are not allowed. This is a city of huge "live oaks" (green all year) draped with Spanish moss (an "air fern" - not a parasite) - a city of squares with a monument or fountain in the centre of each - of boulevards with tall wide trees and of period homes carefully preserved. We found it quite beautiful. We took a trolley tour but the best part of the day was walking along the streets and through the squares.

As we toured the city, we were warm but only because we wore fleeces with our long foul weather jackets over them. When asked where we are from, we were accused of bringing cold weather with us - and people said - look at the clothes they have! - the ones they brought from Canada! Nevertheless, the Ho cakes (cornmeal pancakes) and baking powder biscuits at lunch were memorable and our day in Savannah was sunny, fresh, and beautiful.

The Cathedral of John the Baptist.

Beautiful Beaufort by the Sea

Wednesday, November 19th: Beaufort, SC

After our adventures in Rock Creek this morning (soft grounding and non-starting engine), we moved on to beautiful Beaufort and anchored beside Town Marina. The water is 20-25 feet deep with 1 to 1 1/2 knots current. Bob put out all of the chain and some rope as well to give us enough "scope". For non sailors- the deeper the water, the more scope needed to allow the chain to flatten out for a secure anchor set - something we want to be sure of with strong current pushing us one way and then pulling us another.

Since we arrived just before noon, we have had time to dinghy in for a walk around town and, as our is habit, to seek out WiFi. Without fail, every town street has a coffee shop, ice cream shop, wine bar or eatery that offers free WiFi. Today we went into a "coffee house"and set up shop as usual - both of us with coffee - me at a table with the computer and Bob in a big arm chair reading the newspaper.

Having finished with our communications, we walked beyond the main street. What a beautiful area. The houses look like something out of an old movie - white, tall, with verandas across bottom and top floors, Spanish moss hanging from huge trees, their branches stretched out over gardens and lawns. Every so often, at the water's edge and in between homes, there is an open space with a view of the water - and a sign - "View protected by the city of Beaufort" - a great idea, we think.

From Charleston to Rock Creek

Tuesday, November 18th: Rock Creek

We left Charleston this morning in cool and heavy winds. There was not much sense in waiting since the forecast is the same for the next few days and after all, we are traveling along rivers, creeks and land cuts and not in open water. As we were coming up the Edisto River with 20 knot winds behind us and the current pushing us along, Bob was shaking his head at the force of the water and saying how glad he was that we weren't going against it.

I've been thinking about the boat that was beside us at the Charleston City Marina - a 46 foot Beneteau. The couple on board were taking two very experienced sailors with them on their sail out of Charleston directly to the Bahamas. They waited for better weather and then left on Sunday morning. The sail was to take 3 to 4 days. They will have encountered some of today's weather - this morning, the forecast was for gale force winds along the gulf stream.

Rock Creek

We have just anchored off the ICW in Rock Creek. The temperature is in the 30's (F) and there is a freeze advisory for Charleston, so not the balmy weather one would expect this far south. With the heater on, we are cozy inside the boat and since I cooked a fair sized chicken in the pressure cooker last night, I have dinner for tonight. We've closed up the boat - even with the enclosure fully zipped up, as it has been for several days, we will not be sitting in the cockpit to watch the sunset (too chilly!) but will settle inside instead - listen to the radio, read after dinner and hope for milder temperatures to come.

Rock Creek - Looking downstream

We arrived in Charleston last Friday and spent four nights staying at the Charleston City Marina. The marina boasts a "mega dock" and is indeed a mega marina. We were on Dock x - if that sounds far out - it was. We had a brisk 10 minute walk to the washrooms and showers. There were compensations though. The marina has a once an hour shuttle service as well as a pump out boat that comes on request - well you ask and it comes ---- eventually.

Houses in the "Battery" area of Charleston - pronounced "battry" - worth millions.

The Aiken-Rhett House - We toured this home. Everything in it was owned by the original owners. It wasn't restored but was shown as is after years of hard use. Slave accommodations and stables are hidden behind. The original family owned 18 slaves who took care of their home and stables. This kind of home with family and their many slaves is referred to as an urban plantation

We took advantage of the shuttle service to exchange our starting battery for a new one at West Marine. The engine is still not starting reliably so Bob decided to act on his suspicion that the starting battery isn't holding a charge. West Marine gave us a new battery and $27 back as well - the battery price had dropped since we purchased the first one. We don't know yet if a new battery is the answer - but the engine started today as it should.

In keeping with my ongoing fascination with grocery stores, I must mention the grocery store on the City Marina shuttle route - it's called Harris Teetor's and is a wonderful store with lots of everything. After shopping there, I have decided that it is time for me to stop squirreling food away. I must have faith - given our packed lockers - that even if we don't encounter a proper store for many days to come, it's unlikely that we are going to go hungry.

Charleston is a lovely city full of history and many beautiful pre-revolutionary homes. We went on a carriage tour, a Gullah bus tour (Gullah is a dialect spoken by local blacks) and we toured 2 historic homes. There are many more possible tours to take and homes and museums to be seen. Perhaps we'll stop again on our way back.

This home is called a "single" house - one room deep running all the way back from the street. The door at the front leads to the piazza (the veranda) and the main door to the house is off the piazza. Piazzas in Charleston homes are situated along the side of the house to take advantage of prevailing winds. During warm weather, people went out on to piazzas to sleep.

Sweet grass baskets - sewn, not weaved - price reflects hours it takes to sew them. Prices run from $40 to $200 or more. They are very heavy and sturdy - also quite beautiful. I didn't buy one.

Iron gate by Philip Simmons. The tight curls are hallmarks of his work. His gates are highly prized and his work is everywhere in the city.

Bob says I must write about Hyman's Seafood. This restaurant is advertised in signs on buses and in every tourism book and brochure. Advertisements include clip out coupons for free crab dip or potato soup. On the recommendation of our shuttle driver, we chose another seafood restaurant for dinner our first night but the next day when we out walking, we decided to try the "famous" Hyman's for lunch. We had our free dip and we each chose a broiled fish from the list on the wall board. Those around us were delivered large plates of deep fried seafood - the favoured cooking style here abouts, it seems.

The meal was tasty enough but we wouldn't give it an 8-10 on our rating scale; however, the restaurant's self-promotion was very entertaining. The waitress gives you a card that you're to fill in with your email address to get notice of specials. You can win something if you drop the completed card in the "tackle" box. Bob filled his out. He'll be getting emails from Hyman's for years to come, I expect.

As we were sitting with our tea, "Rita the Greetah" came around with Hyman's Seafood stickers. If you wear one around town, you have an additional chance for a prize. In the bathroom and along the walls as you exit, there are holders with Hyman's business cards for the taking, and to exit, you are asked to follow the carpets leading to the main floor gift shop where you can buy Hyman's Seafood t-shirts, hats and many other nifty Hyman's souvenirs. The waitress told us that the hats are on special - for $4! And to top it all off, the sign on the wall at Hyman's claims "We get 85% of our business through word of mouth." Sure thing!

Almost every house has some kind of iron work. The more wealthy you were, the more you had.

Wednesday, November 19th: On the way to Beaufort, SC

The engine wouldn't start this morning until Bob had run the generator for a good 5 minutes. So much for the battery theory. Bob has a new idea which he will work on when we anchor near Beaufort today.

There was another bit of excitement this morning. When we emerged from our cabin, there were bits of land peeping out of the water a few feet from our boat - it was low tide. We were fine raising the anchor but as we moved back toward the mouth of the river, the depth sounder suddenly showed 00 and we came to a stop. We were grounded - a "soft" grounding since we were sitting on mud. Bob swung the boom out over the side of the boat - didn't work. Then he tied the full diesel and gas jerry cans to the boom and swung it over again. As we were working away at these solutions, the tide was also rising. Before long, using the motor, Bob was able to work the boat off and we were on our to Beaufort, South Carolina - pronounced - Bewfort, unlike Beaufort, North Carolina which is pronounced as you would expect.

Taking Care of Business in Georgetown

Thursday, November 13th: Price Creek, SC

Our early arrival in Georgetown on Tuesday worked well. At 10:00 in the morning it was easy to find a good spot among the boats sitting in the harbour. Once anchored, we loaded the dinghy with our laundry, back packs, and our new fold up dolly from Home Depot. Since we were sitting close to the town dock, we didn't bother putting the engine on the dinghy and Bob rowed us the short distance ashore.

Once into town, we walked the 12 blocks to the laundromat and library (across the street from one another) and did the the laundry, blogging and email. Walking back, we stopped at the Kudzu bakery and bought a walnut banana loaf and a half dutch apple pie. We dropped our clean laundry and our baked goodies at the boat and then went back to town to look around. The looking around involved buying more food - at a specialty food store (for a change of pace - a slice of lasagna, salmon cakes and some chicken salad for sandwiches) and then best of all, fresh shrimp from Independent Seafoods - not a store really - just a warehouse type building with big bins of shrimps, and a shelf with bins of fish on ice. The shrimp boats were docked outside.

We were beginning to weary of all the walking; nevertheless we set out on a 20 minute walk (each way) to the hardware store. The lock Bob uses to secure the dinghy, motor and life jackets had begun to stick - and just that morning, the key dropped off the fob and went missing, so we were using the spare. It was time to replace the lock and as my mother would say, "There's no time like the present". The walk took us down a street of lovely historic homes - many with plaques beside the door listing the year built and name of original owners.
Once back on the boat, we showered before dinner. When showering on board, we shower at atypical times. It's a bit of a process - maneuvering yourself around in the small space and then wiping up after.

We had a luscious dinner. Bob peeled the shrimp and stir fried them. I cooked wild rice and broccoli and made a salad - and of course we had dutch apple pie for dessert. Bob tends to easily hold his weight when we're on the boat, but I know I'm eating more than usual and since I wear mostly very "comfortable" clothes, I can't tell if I'm putting on pounds.

We had done all we wanted to do and seen enough of Georgetown so we decided to move on the following day. Perhaps if we return, we'll spend some time playing tourist and go to the little museum or tour the historic home on Front Street.

Today, not far from Georgetown, we missed a turn and started down another channel. At some of the junctions it's easy to head for a marker not on your route if you aren't continually checking and comparing paper and electronic charts. The clue may be that suddenly you are keeping red navigation aids to port instead of starboard or the aids are missing the small yellow squares or triangles that indicate they are on the ICW route.

As we moved along the land got flat and marshy. Bob had picked out a couple of anchorages that we would get to near dusk. When we moved into Price Creek there was a strong current and crab pots along the edges. We dropped the anchor to one side of centre and I breathed a sigh of relief. Bob often claims not to have been worried about success but I'm always on edge until I know that we're rooted to the bottom.

As we were sitting contemplating the surroundings, we saw Whim, a sailboat that we've seen in almost every anchorage since we left the town of Oriental where they were docked beside us. Every time we anchor, we look around and there's Whim. This time, I saw Whim moving along the ICW, go past the entrance to Price Creek and then double back. We all laughed as they passed us to find a spot. We'll likely not see them again as Carolyn and Keith told us that they are leaving their boat in Charleston and flying home for a visit with their children - but then again, you never know.

Although Price Creek couldn't be called picturesque, I did see a "flock?" of pelicans sitting in the reeds and then watched as they took flight and flew off behind the stern of the boat. They are big birds with a substantial wing span. I have been looking in our bird book to identify other birds we are seeing. It's not so easy. For sure we are seeing various kinds of egrets: water birds with long slender necks.

Soon after the pelicans flew by, we saw the backs of a couple of dolphins as they rounded out of the water and then back down. We have been seeing dolphins almost everyday since we left the Chesapeake.

Tomorrow we are going to Charleston and have booked a spot at the Charleston City Marina for 3 nights. We regret that the Woolseys will not be with us to tour this historic city. They were held up in the Chesapeake much longer than they had planned while repairs and improvements were done on their boat. They were finally back on their boat yesterday and will meet with us whenever they catch up.


High tide as we leave our anchorage in Price Creek.
The tides have been unusually high these last couple of days - there's a full moon. In the morning we couldn't see much land - just water almost touching the triangles and squares of navigation aids. It was kind of spooky! Thank God for the GPS charts and their map of the dredged channel to follow as we are moving through the surrounding water.

Notes to Friends

I am unable to reply to comments from people for whom I don't already have an email address. I get an emailed copy of the comment but I don't get the senders email address - so -

To Aldie and Sue - Thanks very much for your comments. It's good to know that you are enjoying the blog. Little did I suspect when I gave you our "boat card" that day on the deck at the club that you would really follow the blog as you seem to be doing.

Michel and Chantal Viau - It would be great if we are able to get together while you are in Florida. We will be there until the 12th and then will be flying home for Christmas. Keep in touch - and send us your email address - to caroleanoble@rogers.com or robertanoble@rogers.com

Silence Please!

Thursday, November 11th: Thoroughfare Creek, off of the Maccamaw River, SC

On the left - trees along Pine Cut.

On the right - the bridge opens to let us through. We are finally out of the "Rock Pile" portion of Pine Cut where boats frequently go aground on hidden rocks if they wander out of the charted channel.

The Maccamaw River

It's kind of funny in an irritating way. We start out the day traveling through a land cut lined with green and patches of colour and then we're into the Maccamaw River with trees growing out of the water and dense forests beyond the winding river. It's cool but clear and the water is sparkling in the sun.

Along Thoroughfare Creek

Since we've decided it would be best to arrive at Georgetown early in the day to find a spot to anchor, we've planned to travel today until early afternoon, anchor in one of picturesque creeks along the Maccamaw River and then make the short run to Georgetown tomorrow. Bob chose an anchorage on the Thoroughfare Creek. Skipper Bob (not to be confused with Captain Bob) tells us to turn into the creek at G74 (a green navigation aid signaling shallow water). We find the creek and carefully move up and around one bend and then another. It's lovely - colourful foliage, yellow reeds, green pines. Finally the "yellow orange" bank described by Skipper Bob appears. There is another sailboat already anchored, a small speedboat up drawn up on the sand bluff and a couple of people in bathing suits lying in the sun.

The scene when arrive at the anchorage in Thoroughfare Creek.

We choose our spot and drop the anchor. Bob is concerned that we have disturbed the other people here - "It was quiet until we came," he says - because there has been some shouting (me) as our headsets aren't working properly (the ones we use when anchoring). Bob is lowering the anchor. I am at the wheel and I haven't been following instructions properly. "Can you hear me?" he asks angrily. "No," I yell. Eventually we sort things out, so to speak, adjust the headsets and finally, the anchor is in place.

We turn off the motor waiting expectantly for delicious silence to follow. What's that ? Music? A boom box? - well maybe some kind of newer technology but there's a boom boom thud coming from the area of the sand dune - and we hear the melody of ---- what is it? ---- "YMCA" - and then when Bob is up at the bow making a last check of the anchor, a voice bids him "Good Day!" - it's a tour boat sliding by!

Well so much for the illusion of being lulled by the beauty and peaceful sounds of nature.

P.S. The engine has started every time since yesterday morning. Fingers crossed.

Sunset at Thoroughfare Creek

Another Stop for Repairs

From the bridge at Wrightsville: a parade of boats going south.

The long docks and tall houses typically along the ICW in North and South Carolina. Everyone has a balcony, it seems. Some are at the very top of the house.








Monday, November 10: North Myrtle Beach
We're on a marina dock directly on the ICW. The starter engine or starter battery problem remains unsolved and this morning after the engine once again wouldn't start, Bob decided that it was time for outside help. We have a mechanic here to sort out what's wrong (we hope). About every other time we try to start the engine, regardless of whether the engine has been sitting all night, or has just been running (as in where we've stopped for diesel or a pump out), absolutely nothing happens when we turn the key. At other times, it starts just fine. Bob is able to get it started by running the generator for a few minutes so we haven't been stuck anywhere yet.

We stayed 2 nights in Wrightsville so that Bob could try to sort out the starter problem himself - no luck, obviously. We anchored in a big anchorage behind Wrightsville beach and used part of the day for exploring. Wrightsville, it turns out, is a surfing mecca. The restaurants and stores are all geared toward the sporting young. We had a peek at the beach where, even in this coolish weather (low 70s), there were a couple of very skilled surfers in wet suits and also a small surfing competition among some young boys.

Looking out through an inlet off the ICW towards the Atlantic.

For the past couple of days, we've been traveling where bridge openings have to be considered. On Friday, there were 4 bridges to get by - 2 opened on the hour and 2 on the half hour. Getting to bridges roughly at the right time can be managed by putting them in as way points on the GPS. The GPS then tells you the time it will take to get to the way point while traveling at your current speed so that you can speed up or slow down as needed. However, currents going with or against you muddy the planning. For a while we were flying along at 6 - 7 knots as the current carried us, and then slowing to 3.5 - 4.5 knots as it went the other way. On Friday we had 2 bridge openings that went fairly smoothly but yesterday, we couldn't make our timing work. Even though we left Wrightsville at 6:30 am to get to our anchorage in Calabache River well before dusk, we weren't able to make the hourly opening of the Sunset Pontoon Bridge until 4:00 - leaving us roughly 1 1/2 hours to find the anchorage and check it out. There's always the possibility that that the anchorage could be full or we would decide it wasn't the best for another reason and then we would have to be quick about finding an alternate place. The anchorage was, indeed, rather crowded when we got there, but we did find a place and as a bonus, it was quite a beautiful little spot.

Today we were headed for the most challenging part of the ICW - the "Rock Pile" where there are rocks on each side just under the water at high tide which means they could be close by but hidden and that staying in the middle of the charted channel is imperative. Boaters are advised to call ahead on the VHF to see if any big boats are coming the other way. I say we were headed toward that area until, after we got up at 5:30 a.m. for an early up anchor, the engine wouldn't start. Actually - I heard Bob up and although I felt very tired, I got up myself and started to make the bed. It turned out that he was up watching how the boat next to us was swinging in the changing current - Bob was chuckling just a bit when he told me that it was 4:30 am. I did get back in bed but that was the end of my sleep - and of Bob's. Now we are here to stay until tomorrow when we'll head for our the next anchorage - on the Waccamaw River - said to be one of the prettiest spots on the ICW.

Anchorage on the Calabash River

P.S. The mechanic found a loose connection. He says that there are an inordinate number of connectors on the Tartan engine that make it all the more likely for something to come loose. Everything else that he tested was OK so we were all hoping this morning that he had found the "gremlin" as he put it. The engine is starting now - every time - and we hope that continues.